Ron G or Galen probably know more than me, but I'll give it a shot.
I'd have a pro do the rifle if it's a piece that you like and want to keep for a long while. I've played with the touchup bluing kits and have not had good results. I'm going to get my 1911 Colt pistal buffed out and reblued by a pro one of these days.
It's hard to know without looking, but I'd guess the red markings are moisture seals. Is the upper line on the seam between the bullet and the case?
There are some good "home bluing" kits available. I've used the one that advised warming the gun in the oven (not super hot, maybe 140 degrees or so). I've forgotten the name of the product, but it's always sold at gunshows and the like.
But if you want that deep, blue/black color and have a gun that's worth the expense, I'd have it professionally done.
Ha Garth, I was gonna ask what the heck is bluing. I grew up shooting them, keeping them clean and well stored safely but never got the training in bluing obviously.
You mentioned "a good bit of rust." If there is signiicant pitting rebluing is not gonna give you a safe firearm. For something like that much rust I would take it to a pro and have it insepcted. A for ammo you can buy east bloc 7.62 in the US (not made in the US) of reasonable manufacture. If you don't know how old that ammo is I wouldn't trust it a whole lot.
So basically 'bluing' is nothing more than applying blue paint to the gun? For what purpose?
:unsure:
'Bluing' is NOT paint.
It is a chemical method of oxidizing a one-molecule-thick layer of the steel. It is done to protect the inner layers of steel from oxidizing. With a very thin skin of permanent bluing or oxide a piece of steel, it becomes very resistant to further rusting.
Old formulae gave a red colour. But during the industrial revolution their discovered how to do a chemical oxide layer that is dark blue.
When you deal with these chemicals are try to get them to react, cleanliness and temperature have a huge influence. Thus most 'homemade' bluing finishes that you see look terrible. Every inch is a different shade of blue. Some light blue, some dark blue, and many even a few patches of black.
Which is why you need to clean to good, including doing an alcohol wash. And heating the steel to 200 F is an absolute requirement. to get an even finish. I do it in three treatments, to ensure that the finish is even.
You mentioned "a good bit of rust." If there is signiicant pitting rebluing is not gonna give you a safe firearm. For something like that much rust I would take it to a pro and have it insepcted. A for ammo you can buy east bloc 7.62 in the US (not made in the US) of reasonable manufacture. If you don't know how old that ammo is I wouldn't trust it a whole lot.
Any gunsmith can inspect, but after that they would only be making a guess as to the 'safety' of firing the weapon.
Without performing a proofing, you just don't know.
Clean it up, re-blu it, oil it, and then you can either sale it; or go proof it. No big deal.
I have proofed weapons a few times. And no gunsmith can absolutely guarantee the safety of any weapon until it has not been proofed.
I'm going to take them to the gunsmith and let him look at them. I'd rather pay the $ and have it done right then try to do it while I'm baking cookies.
I did a bit of checking on the ammo and it's 20 yrs old. The guide sez its either tracer or ap, the cartridges are in excellent shape and the machining looks right on the money so in a few weeks I'll pop a few off in the woods and what happens.
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Jim
Ron G or Galen probably know more than me, but I'll give it a shot.
I'd have a pro do the rifle if it's a piece that you like and want to keep for a long while. I've played with the touchup bluing kits and have not had good results. I'm going to get my 1911 Colt pistal buffed out and reblued by a pro one of these days.
It's hard to know without looking, but I'd guess the red markings are moisture seals. Is the upper line on the seam between the bullet and the case?
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George Aar
There are some good "home bluing" kits available. I've used the one that advised warming the gun in the oven (not super hot, maybe 140 degrees or so). I've forgotten the name of the product, but it's always sold at gunshows and the like.
But if you want that deep, blue/black color and have a gun that's worth the expense, I'd have it professionally done.
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Linda Z
I'd be wary of using ammo from Romania. Their manufacturing standards may not be that great. We like you too much to lose you over a box of bullets!
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Galen
Strip it down to nothing but the steel.
Buff away all rust,
Then clean it with alcohol, to remove all oils [including finger-print oils].
Put it in your oven and heat it up to 200. After it gets to 200, pull it out and paint on the bluing, and put it back into the oven.
Heat, apply and re-heat; is the sequence. Do this three times and then after a final heating let it cool. the next day you can oil it and reassemble.
I have blued a new on things: rifles, pistols, and even a couple knives. I find it fairly easy to do.
Happy bluing!!
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GarthP2000
So basically 'bluing' is nothing more than applying blue paint to the gun? For what purpose?
:unsure:
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Shellon
Ha Garth, I was gonna ask what the heck is bluing. I grew up shooting them, keeping them clean and well stored safely but never got the training in bluing obviously.
:)
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RumRunner
You mentioned "a good bit of rust." If there is signiicant pitting rebluing is not gonna give you a safe firearm. For something like that much rust I would take it to a pro and have it insepcted. A for ammo you can buy east bloc 7.62 in the US (not made in the US) of reasonable manufacture. If you don't know how old that ammo is I wouldn't trust it a whole lot.
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Galen
'Bluing' is NOT paint.
It is a chemical method of oxidizing a one-molecule-thick layer of the steel. It is done to protect the inner layers of steel from oxidizing. With a very thin skin of permanent bluing or oxide a piece of steel, it becomes very resistant to further rusting.
Old formulae gave a red colour. But during the industrial revolution their discovered how to do a chemical oxide layer that is dark blue.
When you deal with these chemicals are try to get them to react, cleanliness and temperature have a huge influence. Thus most 'homemade' bluing finishes that you see look terrible. Every inch is a different shade of blue. Some light blue, some dark blue, and many even a few patches of black.
Which is why you need to clean to good, including doing an alcohol wash. And heating the steel to 200 F is an absolute requirement. to get an even finish. I do it in three treatments, to ensure that the finish is even.
Any gunsmith can inspect, but after that they would only be making a guess as to the 'safety' of firing the weapon.
Without performing a proofing, you just don't know.
Clean it up, re-blu it, oil it, and then you can either sale it; or go proof it. No big deal.
I have proofed weapons a few times. And no gunsmith can absolutely guarantee the safety of any weapon until it has not been proofed.
:)
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herbiejuan
I'm going to take them to the gunsmith and let him look at them. I'd rather pay the $ and have it done right then try to do it while I'm baking cookies.
I did a bit of checking on the ammo and it's 20 yrs old. The guide sez its either tracer or ap, the cartridges are in excellent shape and the machining looks right on the money so in a few weeks I'll pop a few off in the woods and what happens.
Thanks for advice I'll wear hearing protection.
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