Jump to content
GreaseSpot Cafe

Need Advice


Psalm 71 one
 Share

Recommended Posts

I sorta got clumsy practicing my flyovers!! :confused:

Either that er some BIRDBRAIN did some flyovers!! :biglaugh:

Anyway, I'm getting ready to paint my school room floor. It had carpet and vinyl on it before, (This is in the basement--concrete underneath) and we had all sorts of trouble scooting around on our desk chairs. (Vinyl was a 4'x4' section at the middle of one wall where the door to outside is--furniture had to be arranged around that and our chair wheels got hung up all the time--The room is 9'x 14 with two windows, the outside door, and the door into the room--already a bit hard to arrange, anyway)

I pulled up the carpet just fine, but the padding had been glued to the concrete. The vinyl had also been glued, and tacked on three sides (The metal border thingy between vinyl floors and carpet). The glue for the vinyl came up by peeling. The tackless strip for the carpet came up with a claw hammer (with a bit of the concrete to make it interesting).

The glue for the padding is a pain inna bu++ !! Went to Home Dep0t and while asking the sales clerk what to use, a customer tells me he can help me--he refinishes floors for a living. Tells me I need M.E.K (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)for the adhesive-- and might as well get some acetone just in case the M.E.K doesn't work. Then I can clean the floor with T.S.P(Tri Sodium Phosphate). Afterwards, I can go over the floor with denatured alcohol to make the concrete dry enough to paint. And suggests I get everything at L0we$ because theirs is priced better.

I didn't read the boxes at HD, head over to L0we$, load all the goodies in my cart, and then start reading the directions!! AKKKKKKK!!! :blink: Scary!! <_< I buy the M.E.K and TSP along with some heavy-duty plastic gloves--(touted to be great for use with stripping chemicals), but all along wondering if I really need this stuff?

Well, this morning, I shut myself into the school room, taped that door to the rest of the house shut--in hopes of keeping the fumes down, and leave the windows and outside door open. (No return vents in that room) The M.E.K is no great stuff--had to use plenty of elbow grease, anyway, and then hubby and kids complain of the fumes through out the house anyway. AND IT ATE THROUGH MY GLOVES!!! :realmad: (We have no pilot lights to worry about, but I still don't want all those fumes in the house). So after the room airs out a bit, I use a paint scraper and sander, and get the rest of the glue stuff up (well, there still some to do tomorrow, I got about 3/4 of the room done)

I still have to put the concrete patchy stuff on, too--where the concrete chipped away when the tackless strip came up--not sure if that should be done before or after the final floor cleaning.

I light mopped with water, but the floor is still pretty stained up with the beautiful GA clay. (builders didn't clean the floor too well before they put the carpet in) After reading the TSP box, I DON'T want to use it!!

The floor has no grease or oil--just dirt! (And the smidges of glue that the sander and elbow grease didn't get)

Is there anything else I can use that doesn't threaten to take my skin and mucus linings away with the dirt???? (And doesn't leave a residue that will make the paint bubble or not adhere?)

I jus' wanted to paint the durn floor dagnabbitt! :asdf:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, what a project you have going on. Sounds like it will be great when it's done.

I've used TSP in the past with gloves and never had a problem with it. Did the other chemical actually eat through Neoprene gloves???? Yikes!

Your best bet might be to buy a cleaner made for concrete, sold at the home stores.

I'm no contractor, but I've done my share of remodling and renovating.

Your patching should be done after the final cleaning. Then, just clean the patched areas after they are dry.

Why do all the contractors hide in the woodwork when you need 'em?

DIY people.... any other suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Visit a PAINT store for advise on cleaning and finishing. Visit a hardware store for advise on patching. Let them know how you plan to finish the surface. I personally have had much better results with concrete STAIN than with paint because it does not react to water as adversely as paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Pig

Get a gallon of Maple syrup pour it on the floor until it gets sticky then add 72 small boxes of assorted jello to it ,let it set 1 hour and spray it down with a hose. Add 10 gallons of tomato sauce a pinch or two of basil and stir. Let set overnight and yer floor will be like new the next day. I promise it will work......

The Bird

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HEY FEATHERS!!! I Tried yer idea--now my floor's ruined!! whaaaaaaa!! I want my money back!!

StrangeTom-I have that site open in another window right now-- gonna look at it when I'm done here---Thanks!! I did find another DIY site, and they suggested some acid etching stuff! AKKKKK!!

Waysider--um, duh! (Duh to me, not to you! LOL!) :biglaugh::biglaugh: You're right-- Checking at a paint store for prep for painting makes sense!!! Thanks for the advice. I had already bought the paint, so will stay with that, but will look into stain the next time I want to color concrete. I'm guessing stain on concrete would be like stain on wood vs paint. On wood, when you stain, the grain still shows through, if you paint wood, you cover the grain. Is that true with concrete?

Amazingrace, yeah, I'm hoping it will turn out nice. I love projects like this. I have two colors, Deep green and a lighter blue. The green will be the background, then inset from the walls about 12", I am going to put a blue band about 8-10" wide running around the room. I hope it looks good! (Maybe I can borrow a friend's digital camera and take a picture when it's done). I got the paint from a guy who sells discount paint--$5-10 a gallon depending on the name brand. It's the rejects from paint stores where it was mixed to the wrong color or returned, etc. This guy will tint it and match it as close as he can to what you want. Thanks for the advice about the patching, also. I will look for a less caustic cleaner than TSP, but will use it if I have to. (I'm clutzy sometimes, and am worried I'm gonna burn a hole in my legs or something when I'm on my hands and knees doing the cleaning) The other chemical, in burning through my gloves, may have had some user help in it--I WAS scrubbing concrete, with it--the concrete may have been what rubbed the glove tips raw, instead of the chemical burning through it?

One more thing--I'm thinking of buying a stippling brush for when I paint--this paint is high gloss, and the guy said it will be VERY slippery when wet. (Not that I plan to get the school room floor wet, too often, but there is that outside door there!) Anyway, I've found out that the stuff--pumice--ya put into concrete paint to keep it from being so slippery will tear our skin up if we sit on the floor--and we do on the floor projects frequently enough. I'm thinking with the stippling brush, I can put a least a little texture into the finish to keep us from sliding across the room if we slipped. (brushing the brush at right angles, like when ya do a linen look on the walls with paint). If any of you DIY-ers have other ideas, run em past me? Thanks

NOOOOO, BirdBrain, I'm NOT gonna texture it with bird poop! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might want to type "garage floor" (with quotes) into google and check out the different coatings used for garage floors (paint, rubber, epoxy combinations) and then return your paint... these things are strong, easy to clean and nice looking... paint will peel and scratch easily when desks are moved, etc. (not to mention that kids will always be trying to carve their names in it and mark it with their heels)...

just a thought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OMG psalmy, when you do a project you go get the hardest one to do, huh?

Hey I know that your floors won't get a lot of water on them but I do know how wet kids shoes can be at times. So if they go outside from the outside door and come in it could be slippery city.

To get glue off is my worst nightmore. The carpet glue is an awful mess. I went through it with a wood floor so can imagine what it would be like with a cement floor....I feel for you...... :cryhug_1_:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Piggie

You can sand it off with a floor sander which you can rent at most rentals they can get you a sanding pad. But it will make a dusty mess, so it's either the smell or the dust.

P.S.And I wanna be there to see ya being drug around the room in circles by the sander. whats this high switch do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey salami!!

we had to cover the adhesive on a floor once...long story but to make it short, 2 seperate flooring guys (1 in way, 1 never in way) told us to skim coat it. What that turned out to be was spreading a thin more "juicy" if you will, coat of concrete over the concrete with the funky smelly adhesive that was uner the asphalt flooring.

It was not hard, but was time consuming and we had to get a couple tools...but we most certainly can say from 1-5 its about a 2 on DIY.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...